SpawnofRNGesus's Avatar

SpawnofRNGesus

Joined 06/24/2020 Achieve Points 95 Posts 27

SpawnofRNGesus's Comments

  • SpawnofRNGesus's Avatar
    95 27 Posts Joined 06/24/2020
    Posted 3 years, 7 months ago
     

    https://youtu.be/3-bwJzmuDX4

  • SpawnofRNGesus's Avatar
    95 27 Posts Joined 06/24/2020
    Posted 3 years, 7 months ago

    https://youtu.be/3-bwJzmuDX4

  • SpawnofRNGesus's Avatar
    95 27 Posts Joined 06/24/2020
    Posted 3 years, 7 months ago
     
    https://youtu.be/WQnX_HNRh7I
  • SpawnofRNGesus's Avatar
    95 27 Posts Joined 06/24/2020
    Posted 3 years, 7 months ago
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-JELW0uJFc&feature=share
  • SpawnofRNGesus's Avatar
    95 27 Posts Joined 06/24/2020
    Posted 3 years, 7 months ago
     
    https://youtu.be/vUiihnxOQcM
  • SpawnofRNGesus's Avatar
    95 27 Posts Joined 06/24/2020
    Posted 3 years, 7 months ago

    Despite being nerfed by Blizzard a couple months back, Millhouse Manastorm remains one of my favorite heroes to play and here are some tips, guides and tricks on how I play Millhouse at 11k+ MMR.

    Picking Millhouse

    I like picking Millhouse over most Tier 3 and 4 heroes and even some Tier 2 heroes, but the times I look forward to picking Millhouse the most is when Dragons, Beast and Pirates are all in the game.

    • Dragons – finding an early game Kalecgos is extremely strong with Millhouse because no one else can cycle battlecries as efficiently as Millhouse since buying and selling battlecry minions only costs 1 gold overall. Additionally, if you find Steward of Times (3/4 Dragons – sell to give Tavern minions +1/+1), it only costs 1 gold to give the shop a +1/+1 buff by buying the dragon and immediately selling it.

    • Beasts – similar to cycling dragons above. If beasts are in the game and you can find some early game Rabid Saurolisks, it’s really easy to cycle deathrattle minions throughout the game to continue buffing your Saurolisks. Even if you find a Saurolisk in the mid-game, sometimes it’s still worth it to pick it up since you can scale it very quickly.

    • Pirates – pirates are a huge buff to Millhouse because of a couple cards. Deck Swabbies reduce the cost of tiering up and by buying a Deck Swabbie and selling it on the same turn, you’re essentially “banking” 1 gold for the future since you spend 1 gold that turn but the cost to tier up is reduced by 1. Another great card is the 3/3 Freedealing Gambler that sells for 3 gold. Buying this and selling it on the same turn with Millhouse is an immediate profit of 1 gold or it can be saved for future turns to significantly reduce the cost of tiering up or allowing you to quickly replace it with stronger minions in the shop. Salty Looter, Cap’n Hoggarr and Southsea Strongarm all benefit from Millhouse’s hero power as well since it becomes very cheap to cycle many pirates in a single turn. Having a Cap’n Hoggar on the board greatly reduces the “penalty” of costing 2 gold to refresh the tavern if you can find some pirates.

     

    Playing Millhouse

    Turn 1 – 3 gold – 6 to tier – look for a token generator such as a 2/1 Murloc or a 1/1 Alleycat. Sell the token and buy another minion. Alternatively, you can also buy a Deck Swabbie, play it and then sell it and buy another minion.

    Turn 2 – 4 gold – 5 to tier – this turn is more flexible and depends on your start and what is being offered on your board. You have the option to buy two minions on this turn or sell a minion and tier up to 4. If you played a deck swabbie on the first turn, you can also just tier up without selling anything. If you have the option to tier up on this turn and still maintain a minion on board to win or tie the next fight, generally I would advise it’s a good idea to do so cause then you spend turns 3 and 4 buying tier 2 minions to fill your board.

    Turn 3 – 5 gold – if you’re still on Tier 1, I generally tier up, sell a minion and buy a better minion to replace it if possible. If you’re on Tier 2, generally sell your minion and buy 3 of the best minions offered.

    Turn 4 – 6 gold – buy 3 of the best minions available to you. Even if it’s terrible, I generally wouldn’t advise refreshing the tavern.

    Turn 5 – 7 gold – depending on what turn you tiered up to 2, this will either be sell a minion and tier up to tier 3 or tier up and buy one minion.

    Turn 6 – 8 gold – this turn is fairly discretionary. At this point, it will depend on your health and board state as well as what is being offered in the shop during this turn. If you’re relatively ahead and comfortable with your board state, this would be a good opportunity to tier up to Tier 4 on this turn. If you’re feeling less confident in your board or your HP is starting to dip, you can spend this turn reinforcing your board with (hopefully) tier 3 minions and maybe even rerolling the shop once and wait until the next turn to tier up. Getting to Tier 4 as early as possible is extremely important because you gain access to one additional minion in the shop and thus reduces the risk that you will need to reroll to find anything good. From this point onwards, I’ll generally spend anywhere from 1-3 turns staying on Tier 4 before tiering up to Tier 5.

     

    Other thoughts and tips

    • Picking up a Zerus is much more of a low-risk high-reward choice as Millhouse since it’s less punishing at 2 gold than by buying it as any other hero for 3 gold.

    • Crowd Favorite is another amazing Millhouse card because you can cycle battlecry minions early on in order to scale up these minions. You can also take some Crowd Favorites that have been buffed and transition them to a Kalecgos Dragon build where they can continue to be buffed in the late game as well by battlecry minions

    • It’s significantly more gold-efficient in the mid and late game to buy minions instead of spending 2 gold to refresh the tavern. You can use this to your advantage by picking up tech cards that may be useful to have on-hand that you don’t necessarily need right away (such as Khadgar and Brann for a future murloc transition or a 1/3 Unstable Ghoul to fight mech boards). You can also pick up pairs of minions that you find in hopes of getting triples and oftentimes in the mid-game I’ll find myself with 5+ cards in my hand as Millhouse.

    • Try to be as flexible with your board as possible and don’t try to force a specific tribe too early in the game (especially Murlocs) since it’s extremely punishing to have to re-roll the shop for 2 gold trying to find specific minions. Be very open minded with your board and in the early and mid-game just aim to build the strongest board you can each turn without worrying about board synergy too much.

    I hope the above helps you with your Millhouse Manastorm games! I played a perfect zero-loss 40 health game of Millhouse at 11.8K MMR and if you want to check it out as well as see the my tips in action, check out the following video:

    https://youtu.be/NrbRhrtquKw

  • SpawnofRNGesus's Avatar
    95 27 Posts Joined 06/24/2020
    Posted 3 years, 7 months ago

    Despite being nerfed by Blizzard a couple months back, Millhouse Manastorm remains one of my favorite heroes to play and here are some tips, guides and tricks on how I play Millhouse at 11k+ MMR.

    Picking Millhouse

    I like picking Millhouse over most Tier 3 and 4 heroes and even some Tier 2 heroes, but the times I look forward to picking Millhouse the most is when Dragons, Beast and Pirates are all in the game.

    • Dragons – finding an early game Kalecgos is extremely strong with Millhouse because no one else can cycle battlecries as efficiently as Millhouse since buying and selling battlecry minions only costs 1 gold overall. Additionally, if you find Steward of Times (3/4 Dragons – sell to give Tavern minions +1/+1), it only costs 1 gold to give the shop a +1/+1 buff by buying the dragon and immediately selling it.

    • Beasts – similar to cycling dragons above. If beasts are in the game and you can find some early game Rabid Saurolisks, it’s really easy to cycle deathrattle minions throughout the game to continue buffing your Saurolisks. Even if you find a Saurolisk in the mid-game, sometimes it’s still worth it to pick it up since you can scale it very quickly.

    • Pirates – pirates are a huge buff to Millhouse because of a couple cards. Deck Swabbies reduce the cost of tiering up and by buying a Deck Swabbie and selling it on the same turn, you’re essentially “banking” 1 gold for the future since you spend 1 gold that turn but the cost to tier up is reduced by 1. Another great card is the 3/3 Freedealing Gambler that sells for 3 gold. Buying this and selling it on the same turn with Millhouse is an immediate profit of 1 gold or it can be saved for future turns to significantly reduce the cost of tiering up or allowing you to quickly replace it with stronger minions in the shop. Salty Looter, Cap’n Hoggarr and Southsea Strongarm all benefit from Millhouse’s hero power as well since it becomes very cheap to cycle many pirates in a single turn. Having a Cap’n Hoggar on the board greatly reduces the “penalty” of costing 2 gold to refresh the tavern if you can find some pirates.

     

    Playing Millhouse

    Turn 1 – 3 gold – 6 to tier – look for a token generator such as a 2/1 Murloc or a 1/1 Alleycat. Sell the token and buy another minion. Alternatively, you can also buy a Deck Swabbie, play it and then sell it and buy another minion.

    Turn 2 – 4 gold – 5 to tier – this turn is more flexible and depends on your start and what is being offered on your board. You have the option to buy two minions on this turn or sell a minion and tier up to 4. If you played a deck swabbie on the first turn, you can also just tier up without selling anything. If you have the option to tier up on this turn and still maintain a minion on board to win or tie the next fight, generally I would advise it’s a good idea to do so cause then you spend turns 3 and 4 buying tier 2 minions to fill your board.

    Turn 3 – 5 gold – if you’re still on Tier 1, I generally tier up, sell a minion and buy a better minion to replace it if possible. If you’re on Tier 2, generally sell your minion and buy 3 of the best minions offered.

    Turn 4 – 6 gold – buy 3 of the best minions available to you. Even if it’s terrible, I generally wouldn’t advise refreshing the tavern.

    Turn 5 – 7 gold – depending on what turn you tiered up to 2, this will either be sell a minion and tier up to tier 3 or tier up and buy one minion.

    Turn 6 – 8 gold – this turn is fairly discretionary. At this point, it will depend on your health and board state as well as what is being offered in the shop during this turn. If you’re relatively ahead and comfortable with your board state, this would be a good opportunity to tier up to Tier 4 on this turn. If you’re feeling less confident in your board or your HP is starting to dip, you can spend this turn reinforcing your board with (hopefully) tier 3 minions and maybe even rerolling the shop once and wait until the next turn to tier up. Getting to Tier 4 as early as possible is extremely important because you gain access to one additional minion in the shop and thus reduces the risk that you will need to reroll to find anything good. From this point onwards, I’ll generally spend anywhere from 1-3 turns staying on Tier 4 before tiering up to Tier 5.

     

    Other thoughts and tips

    • Picking up a Zerus is much more of a low-risk high-reward choice as Millhouse since it’s less punishing at 2 gold than by buying it as any other hero for 3 gold.

    • Crowd Favorite is another amazing Millhouse card because you can cycle battlecry minions early on in order to scale up these minions. You can also take some Crowd Favorites that have been buffed and transition them to a Kalecgos Dragon build where they can continue to be buffed in the late game as well by battlecry minions

    • It’s significantly more gold-efficient in the mid and late game to buy minions instead of spending 2 gold to refresh the tavern. You can use this to your advantage by picking up tech cards that may be useful to have on-hand that you don’t necessarily need right away (such as Khadgar and Brann for a future murloc transition or a 1/3 Unstable Ghoul to fight mech boards). You can also pick up pairs of minions that you find in hopes of getting triples and oftentimes in the mid-game I’ll find myself with 5+ cards in my hand as Millhouse.

    • Try to be as flexible with your board as possible and don’t try to force a specific tribe too early in the game (especially Murlocs) since it’s extremely punishing to have to re-roll the shop for 2 gold trying to find specific minions. Be very open minded with your board and in the early and mid-game just aim to build the strongest board you can each turn without worrying about board synergy too much.

    I hope the above helps you with your Millhouse Manastorm games! I played a perfect zero-loss 40 health game of Millhouse at 11.8K MMR and if you want to check it out as well as see the my tips in action, check out the following video:

    https://youtu.be/NrbRhrtquKw

  • SpawnofRNGesus's Avatar
    95 27 Posts Joined 06/24/2020
    Posted 3 years, 7 months ago
    Battlegrounds has a new cat hero! I played a couple games with Mr. Bigglesworth yesterday and here are my initial impressions of him:
    • His hero power is super fun to play with if you can use it a couple times in a game. I think the discover aspect is a little underpowered and maybe that number can be tweaked to adjust his win rates once there is more data (i.e. discover 4 minions instead)
    • He feels like a combination of playing Patchwerk without the HP boost and Eudora without the consistency. You're essentially doing nothing with your hero power for most of the game and you never know when your hero power will actually activate. I think it's a fair trade-off since theoretically you could end a game having "dug" 6 golden minions from your opponents and discovering a minion from a tier up 6 different times if you happen to discover a golden minion each time from your hero power.
    • The unfortunate thing is that most people who die in the early game don't have super strong minions to begin with, so often your hero power for the first couple of deaths don't provide you with a huge power boost anyways
    • Because of his inconsistency I think he will be a Tier 3 or Tier 4 hero in terms of win-rates but I think you will definitely see him from time to time at all MMR levels just because there is always a chance he can snowball and win games with his hero power.
    If you want to check out my full Mr. Bigglesworth game, take a look here:
  • SpawnofRNGesus's Avatar
    95 27 Posts Joined 06/24/2020
    Posted 3 years, 8 months ago
    Despite being one of the lowest rated heroes on HS replay, I find that Aranna Starseeker is one of the strongest heroes with Murlocs because her hero power lets her find minions which is the biggest struggle with Murlocs in the early and mid game. General tips for the way I play Aranna:
     
    • Stay on Tier 1 for longer and play similar to a Rafaam curve, it’s much easier to squeeze in a refresh early on without losing tempo as opposed to trying to tier up on turn 2 since if you go to tier 2 you either don’t finish your hero power quest until Tier 3 or you risk losing massive tempo by not buying minions. By staying on Tier 1 longer, you’ll finish your hero power quest much sooner and remain competitive with the lobby since you’re buying a minion every turn.
    • Try and find murlocs in the first couple of rounds, but don’t refresh excessively and make sure you’re still buying one minion each round at a minimum. If you can find the 2/3 murlocs to buff your board you can even remain competitive against some heroes on Tier 2.
    • Don’t go for super early triples unless you have a specific reason for doing so. Generally if you’re playing Murlocs you want to find golden minions in order to discover minions at Tiers 3, 5 and 6.
    • Even once you finish your hero power quest, it’s much easier for you to find Murlocs but if you still can’t find any, don’t try to force them and go with whatever you can find in the lobby. Tier 3 is a great spot for 7 minions because there’s a lot of minions you can build a board around. If you find deflects you can build for mechs or if you find jugglers you can build for token demons.
    • One of the biggest benefits to Tier 4 is having an extra minion offered to you in the shop but since you’re Aranna that benefit is irrelevant. If you’re playing murlocs, there’s only one murloc on tier 4 so it’s not as detrimental to stay on Tier 3 to find Murloc buffs or find a triple on the board. Once you find a triple on the board, you can freeze it and then on the next turn go tier 4 and discover a Tier 5 minion instead.
    • With Aranna it’s much easier to find golden minions and that is very helpful but can also backfire if you don’t find what you need and fire all your shots off too early. This is an issue in the early and mid-game if most of your board is golden too early and you can’t hit any more golden minions to discover a Tier 5 minion. If you run into this issue on Tier 5 and you don’t really have any more chances to discover a Tier 6 minion and you may need to just go to Tier 6 and roll for Gentle Megasaur manually which at that point your hero power is the least useful.
    I hope the above was helpful and that you find luck with your Aranna games. I really don’t think that she deserves her spot on HS replay as the worst hero and doing even worse than Bartendotron and Illidan (filtered for MMR above 9k). If you want to see a step-to-step guide to me playing Aranna around 12k MMR, check out this link:
     
  • SpawnofRNGesus's Avatar
    95 27 Posts Joined 06/24/2020
    Posted 3 years, 8 months ago

    Since the release of the latest patch, Amalgadon has been my absolute favorite card. I think it’s one of the most well-balanced cards that has been added to Battlegrounds as it can be viable in any board composition but it doesn’t feel oppressive or unfair to play against like Holy Mackerel used to be. Unless you’re playing a Menagerie board, the more “ahead” you are in developing an end-game board (i.e. full board of Murlocs or full board of Dragons), the weaker the card becomes and the more behind you are in building a synergistic board, the stronger the card becomes in hopes of helping you catch up. Looking at HS Replay statistics, Amalgadon is one of the top 3 most impactful minions for every single board composition which makes a lot of sense because it works well with almost every board:

    • Menagerie: huge buff to Menagerie boards, although still not great by any means they’re much more competitively viable than they were previously. Amalgadon does best when both Murlocs and Mechs are both in play since you can manually add poison or a divine shield if you miss with the adaptations.

    • Dragons: I think Amalgadon is actually the biggest buff to dragons since it can be a poisonous divine shield minion that gets further buffed by Kalecgos, regain divine shield from Nadina and also help buff your Waxrider by killing enemy minions.

    • Murlocs: huge buff to murlocs because it can be discovered by Primalfin Lookout at Tier 5 and it can also be buffed and adapted. Also synergizes well with the fact that you often have a Brann on board as well.

    • Beasts: can be buffed by Goldrinn, Mama Bear and Pack Leader. Downside is that it can interfere with your Monstrous Macaw since it can gain a deathrattle.

    • Mechs: it doesn’t add much synergy unfortunately and could actually hurt your board by spawning non-mech tokens with the deathrattle and taking up board space. The only upside is that it’ll get buffed by cards like Metaltooth Leaper in case it doesn’t already have poison. It’s a very slight buff to Sneed’s Old Shredder as a 6/6 minion coming out isn’t bad and as a mech minion it’ll also reset your divine shields on Deflect-o-Bot.

    • Pirates: pretty decent buff to Pirates since it can be used defensively as a big taunt minion (which pirates generally don’t have) or aggressively as an attacker to activate buffs from Ripsnarl Captain and Dread Admiral Eliza. It’s also a buff to Tide Razor since it’s a 6* minion with 6/6 in stats which is an above-average pirate to come out of the boat and deals an extra 6 hero damage if it stays alive.

    • Demons: slight synergy with demons because it can activate Soul Juggler however the downside is the 1/1 deathrattle spawns could take up board space that would otherwise be filled with voidwalkers from a voidlord. Slight buff to Imp Mama as well since a 6/6 minion is above average.

    Some lower tiered heroes that have benefited from Amalgadon:

    • Alexstrasza – I think this is a slight buff to Alex as discovering this card with the hero power is actually quite impactful since you’re generally rushing to Tier 5 and you may have a bit of a menagerie board at this point anyways if you weren’t able to find strong dragons along the way. Additionally, if you do decide to go dragons

    • Infinite Toki – huge buff to Toki because it’s a great minion for her to discover with her hero power on turn 5. It’s not like finding a Nadina when you have no dragons or finding a Megasaur with no murlocs, if you find an Amalgadon it’ll generally strengthen your existing board.

    • Shudderwock – amazing synergy with hero power, enough said.

    The following chart was pulled from Twitter and I don’t have the original source of who did the calculations, but here’s the probability of hitting the jackpot with Amalgadon which is getting both poison and divine shield:

    Number of adapts = Probability of divine shield and poison

    1 = 0.00%

    2 = 3.13%

    3 = 8.20%

    4 = 14.40%

    5 = 21.15%

    6 = 28.04%

    7 = 34.81%

    8 = 41.29%

    9 = 47.38%

    10 = 53.02%

    11 = 58.19%

    12 = 62.88%

    Thank you for coming to my Ted Talk. Here’s one of my favorite games I’ve had with Amalgadon:

    https://youtu.be/ElbdeuZfI98

  • SpawnofRNGesus's Avatar
    95 27 Posts Joined 06/24/2020
    Posted 3 years, 8 months ago
    Hey all, I'm Stryder and I'm a 12k MMR player in North America. According to HS Replay, despite having a pretty solid win rate (average placement of 4.19), Big Demons are one of the most unpopular deck types sitting at a popularity of 5.3% compared to Murlocs at 21.4%, Dragons at 14.6% and Mechs at 11.4%. I’ve found that big demons are one of my most consistent boards to consistently place top 4 and consistently place top 2 in non-murloc lobbies.
    Here’s some thoughts and tips on going big demons, excluding anything about Jaraxxus because I think he’s fairly self-explanatory. Heroes that I typically play with Big Demons:
    • Pyramad – I find his hero power works really well in the early game while your Weaver is still growing. If you have a weaver on turn 1 and find two demons, you could potentially have a 5/13 minion by turn 3.
    • Maiev – I find that she does extremely well with Demons because you inherently end up staying on Tier 1 for a couple extra turns anyways, so you have a chance to look for Wrath Weavers and demons early on.
    • Hooktusk – she is absolutely awful post-nerf and you shouldn’t play her if you can avoid it, but her hero power does let you have additional chances at finding Tier 1 demons and Wrath Weavers
    • Rafaam – works well for the same logic as Maiev, you stay on tier 1 for a couple extra turns anyways so if Weavers show up in the shop you can grab them. People also love giving you 2/4 Vulgar demons when you’re Raf so you can likely get an early triple of these
    • George – again, not a great hero and you should probably avoid picking him, but unlike a lot of other compositions, a lot of your eventual end-game minions are bought pretty early so you can use your hero power on minions like Wrath Weavers and Soul Jugglers and these minions will be with you for most of the game. Playing demons and staying on Tier 1 a couple extra turns as George as opposed to tiering on turn 2 also reduces the chance you lose your first 4-5 fights fighting other heroes that have much more impactful early-game hero powers.
    • Reno Jackson – I won’t always use my hero power on the Wrath Weaver because once you do you’re forcing demons 100%, however if there is an early Wrath Weaver on board and one other demon, having a golden 6/6 by turn 3 that gains +4/+4 every single turn can usually guarantee you a spot in the top 4.
    Other minions that really work well with big demons:
    • Goldgrubber – big demons often end up running a lot of golden cards on their board, between Wrath Weavers, Floating Watchers and Soul Jugglers being the most common, Goldgrubber works really well alongside these golden minions
    • Brann – I personally like picking up Brann when I play big demons, not only is it a good card to have on hand in case you want to transition to Murlocs but in the late game you can taunt most of your board and pick up some Strongshell Scavengers (give your taunt minions +2/+2) and beef up your stats quite quickly. Plus, with the introduction of Amalgadon having the Brann on hand gives it a couple extra adaptations and Amalgadon is always a welcome addition
    • Selfless hero – a bit of an underrated card in my opinion but having a golden selfless hero is amazing for a big demon board, especially when you’re not running jugglers and demon tokens.
    Other thoughts and tips:
    • Finding a golden Wrath Weaver is one of the most important aspects of the composition. Having a golden Wrath Weaver and 10 gold means it’s 5 health for a 20/20 buff on your minion in the early game. Often, I’ll find myself staying on a lower tier for an extra turn or two just rolling to make sure I get a golden Weaver.
    • Considering how fast the meta is right now, building a composition where essentially you cap out at tier 5 with Malganis and Voidlords is really nice because you don’t need to search for 6* minions to make your board work (such as Beasts with mama bear, Murlocs with megasaur and Pirates with Dread Admiral). Imp Mama is a nice addition if you’re playing jugglers but you absolutely don’t require one to make your board work. As a result, even if you don’t necessarily win 1st place in every lobby, I find you consistently do well with big demons because it’s less of a all-or-nothing approach going for those highroll discovers
    • 1/3 Unstable Ghoul combined with an imp mama on board is an effective way of fighting against mech boards and murlocs that may have divine shield, just be careful of cleaves because your imp mama will spawn a taunt demon to the right of herself
    • Sometimes when I murloc transition, I’ll save the Wrath Weaver and not sell it that turn, just as a bit of an insurance policy in-case I low-roll with my transition, having a taunted 50/50 Wrath Weaver is sometimes enough to kill a couple big minions and either win the fight or keep you alive. I also find when I do this I don’t necessarily always need to hit the nuts and get divine/poison murlocs, having a big Wrath Weaver on board and a couple of bran-bagurgled murlocs is sometimes enough and you can transition over the course of 2-3 turns rather than a single turn.
    Here's a game of me playing Big Demons with Pyramad in which I tried to outline my thoughts throughout the video:
     
     
    https://youtu.be/tsHcD8y0Nik
  • SpawnofRNGesus's Avatar
    95 27 Posts Joined 06/24/2020
    Posted 3 years, 8 months ago

    Hello! I'm a 12k MMR North American player and I thought I'd write down some of my thoughts on murloc transitions in this current meta. With the addition of Amalgadon, Murlocs got a serious power boost and murlocs are winning the majority of the lobbies at my level. There's nothing more frustrating than knowing halfway through a game that there's no chance of winning the lobby with your current board and that's why you always need to consider the potential of a murloc transition.

    When to look towards Murloc Transitions:

    • When you’re relatively ahead, if you’re weak compared to the lobby, you need to be more concerned about not dying

    • You start to find the pieces of the murloc transition in the shop (usually the first piece I find that normally triggers the idea of the transition is finding a Brann)

    • Based on the lobby, you’re building a 2nd place board, for example if there’s six players alive and three of them are playing murlocs, chances are one of them will end up with the ultimate divine shield murloc board. If you’re playing something like big demons, you’re unlikely to beat them in a final 1v1 fight, so you either play for 2nd place or look for your own murloc board

    Key cards for the murloc transition:

    • Brann

    • Murloc tidehunter (2/1 murloc)

    • Primalfin Lookout

    • Khadgar

    • Megasaur

    You don’t need all of the above to complete the transition however the more of the above that you do have, the more likely you will be successful in your transition.

    When to actually pull off the transition:

    • When you have enough of the above pieces to reasonably attempt a transition (if you're already holding a megasaur I'd be comfortable with fewer pieces however if you don't have one yet I'd be more hesitant)

    • When you’re fighting an opponent that you don’t think you can beat with your existing board and you will likely die with your existing board, however, a board of divine shield murlocs with poison could win it for you

    • When you’re fighting a really weak opponent (preferably a ghost) and even if you don’t get the perfect board, you’ll still likely win

    When to be cautious of attempting a murloc transition:

    • Fighting a mech board – the murloc transition generally results in a board with poisoned murlocs but relatively low health. Against mechs with divine shield resets, you could very easily lose a fight

    • Fighting a demon juggler board – similarly, unless you’ve been preparing for your murloc transition for a couple turns and have stockpiled bagurgles and coldlights, your murlocs may still get destroyed by the enemy’s Soul jugglers

    • Fighting a beast board – if you’re fighting an enemy with a mama bear and dirty rats, your murlocs will not be strong enough to survive hits from the enemy’s 6/6 rats that spawn unless you get very lucky and are able to snipe the mama bear. Additional, an enemy cleave from a cave hydra destroys multiple divine shields.

    I put together a video showing a game where I was playing as pirates and I knew I could not win the lobby so I ended up doing a murloc transition. It's not a perfect example by any means however it's a realistic average transition for me:

    https://youtu.be/WKAvR0rUPEM

  • SpawnofRNGesus's Avatar
    95 27 Posts Joined 06/24/2020
    Posted 3 years, 8 months ago

    Hello! I'm a 12k MMR North American player and I thought I'd write down some of my thoughts on murloc transitions in this current meta. With the addition of Amalgadon, Murlocs got a serious power boost and murlocs are winning the majority of the lobbies at my level. There's nothing more frustrating than knowing halfway through a game that there's no chance of winning the lobby with your current board and that's why you always need to consider the potential of a murloc transition.

    When to look towards Murloc Transitions:

    • When you’re relatively ahead, if you’re weak compared to the lobby, you need to be more concerned about not dying

    • You start to find the pieces of the murloc transition in the shop (usually the first piece I find that normally triggers the idea of the transition is finding a Brann)

    • Based on the lobby, you’re building a 2nd place board, for example if there’s six players alive and three of them are playing murlocs, chances are one of them will end up with the ultimate divine shield murloc board. If you’re playing something like big demons, you’re unlikely to beat them in a final 1v1 fight, so you either play for 2nd place or look for your own murloc board

    Key cards for the murloc transition:

    • Brann

    • Murloc tidehunter (2/1 murloc)

    • Primalfin Lookout

    • Khadgar

    • Megasaur

    You don’t need all of the above to complete the transition however the more of the above that you do have, the more likely you will be successful in your transition.

    When to actually pull off the transition:

    • When you have enough of the above pieces to reasonably attempt a transition (if you're already holding a megasaur I'd be comfortable with fewer pieces however if you don't have one yet I'd be more hesitant)

    • When you’re fighting an opponent that you don’t think you can beat with your existing board and you will likely die with your existing board, however, a board of divine shield murlocs with poison could win it for you

    • When you’re fighting a really weak opponent (preferably a ghost) and even if you don’t get the perfect board, you’ll still likely win

    When to be cautious of attempting a murloc transition:

    • Fighting a mech board – the murloc transition generally results in a board with poisoned murlocs but relatively low health. Against mechs with divine shield resets, you could very easily lose a fight

    • Fighting a demon juggler board – similarly, unless you’ve been preparing for your murloc transition for a couple turns and have stockpiled bagurgles and coldlights, your murlocs may still get destroyed by the enemy’s Soul jugglers

    • Fighting a beast board – if you’re fighting an enemy with a mama bear and dirty rats, your murlocs will not be strong enough to survive hits from the enemy’s 6/6 rats that spawn unless you get very lucky and are able to snipe the mama bear. Additional, an enemy cleave from a cave hydra destroys multiple divine shields.

    I put together a video showing a game where I was playing as pirates and I knew I could not win the lobby so I ended up doing a murloc transition. It's not a perfect example by any means however it's a realistic average transition for me:

    https://youtu.be/WKAvR0rUPEM

  • SpawnofRNGesus's Avatar
    95 27 Posts Joined 06/24/2020
    Posted 3 years, 8 months ago

    Sindragosa isn’t the most exciting hero, it doesn’t let you high-roll a golden Hangry Dragon on turn 4 or steal a minion from your opponent but I find his hero power makes for a very consistent early/mid game carry that lets you avoid damage and win fights while building up an end-game board. Here’s a detailed breakdown of the early game and how I play Sindragosa.

    Turn 1 – 3 gold – 3 minions in shop

    Out of the 3 minions offered, generally pick the strongest minion or the minion most likely to win or tie fights, you want to avoid taking damage in the first two turns. You can’t be too picky and you need to freeze the board on turn 1, even if the minions aren’t necessarily that great. Best case scenario minions to freeze:

    • Righteous Protector – taunt and divine shield, makes a fantastic early game minion as a 3/3 or 4/4 taunt with divine shield

    • Fiendish Servant – deathrattle to transfer attack to other minion, it’s not the best but could possibly help you win a fight or two you would have otherwise lost

    • Vulgar Homunculus – if I’m not buying this on turn 1 because I have other options, I actually like freezing this minion because it becomes a quick 4/6 or 5/7 taunt and can be further buffed by Nathrezim Overseer at Tier 2 if you find one.

    • Mechs – I generally don’t mind freezing mechs because they are so easy to buff at tier 3 and 4.

    • Wrath Weaver – I like freezing the Weaver because I can defrost it at turn 3 or 4 and keep buffing it. Even if I don’t force demons I can spend a little bit of health and have a quick 8/8 minion by tier 3 to help win some fights.

     

    Turn 2 – 4 gold – 3 minions in shop

    Tier up and freeze the board.

     

    Turn 3 – 5 gold – 4 minions in shop

    This is where things get weird, it depends on how you started and what are your minions in the shop. At this point you have 3 buffed minions in your tavern (2 with a 2/2 buff, 1 with a 1/1 buff) and a 4th unbuffed minion, hopefully tier 2. There’s generally a couple common situations but you’ll still freeze the board at the end of your turn:

    • You started turn 1 with a token, so either a 2/1 murloc tidehunter or a 1/1 Alleycat. I’ll sell the token and buy two minions. I don’t want to lose to next fight so my best case scenario would be to buy the unbuffed minion and buy the minion that benefits the least from a buff. So for example, if I have a Deck Swabbie and Righteous Protector that has been frozen since turn 1 and a Mecharoo frozen since turn 2, I’ll likely buy the Deck Swabbie that is now a 4/4 since it can probably win a fight and I’d rather keep buffing the other two minions.

    • You did not start with a token, but the 4th minion that just came out is stronger, say a 3/4 Steward of Time, sell your minion, buy the 3/4 Dragon and buy a 4/4 Deck Swabbie.

    • You did not start with a token, and the 4th minion that just came out is trash. Buy the trash, sell the trash so that the empty spot refills next turn, buy the 4/4 Deck Swabbie.

     

    Turn 4 – 6 gold – 4 minions in shop

    This is again another interesting turn with Sindragosa and it depends on your board and your health at this point:

    • You’re still above 37 health and you’re fighting someone weak, buy the two weakest minions (if they’re still useful) or buy one of the minions that has been frozen since turn 1. Freeze the board.

    • You’ve lowrolled into Rafaam turn 2 and AFK turn 3 and your health is getting low, buy the 2 minions that have been frozen since turn 1. Freeze the board.

     

    Turn 5 – 7 gold – 4 minions in shop

    Really depends on what you’ve built up to this point but you should buy one minion and tier up to Tier 3. If you’ve only got one remaining buffed minion in the shop, buy it and don’t freeze and look for tier 3 minions next turn. If you have been greedy, you may just buy a single minion frozen since turn 1 and freeze the board again.

    At this point, you should have a decently buffed board. Try to build the strongest board you possibly can at turn 6 to ensure that you can comfortably tier up to Tier 4 by turn 7. Don’t get married to your minions and if you can sell a buffed minion to replace it with a stronger minion, don’t be afraid to do it. Your hero power beyond this point is a perk but don’t freeze minions that aren’t that great just because of the 1/1 buff.

    To recap all of the above, freeze your board every turn for the first 4 turns and try to play around with what is being offered to you as best as you can. I’ve uploaded a video of me playing Sindragosa at 12k MMR that further explains my thought process throughout:

    https://youtu.be/Vk-3KOBwn84

     

  • SpawnofRNGesus's Avatar
    95 27 Posts Joined 06/24/2020
    Posted 3 years, 8 months ago

    https://youtu.be/GbuyWgpJixM

  • SpawnofRNGesus's Avatar
    95 27 Posts Joined 06/24/2020
    Posted 3 years, 8 months ago

    https://youtu.be/GbuyWgpJixM

  • SpawnofRNGesus's Avatar
    95 27 Posts Joined 06/24/2020
    Posted 3 years, 8 months ago

    https://youtu.be/WglmYXWfEgs

  • SpawnofRNGesus's Avatar
    95 27 Posts Joined 06/24/2020
    Posted 3 years, 8 months ago

    https://youtu.be/WglmYXWfEgs

  • SpawnofRNGesus's Avatar
    95 27 Posts Joined 06/24/2020
    Posted 3 years, 8 months ago

    https://youtu.be/NeT2WlJlmRY

  • SpawnofRNGesus's Avatar
    95 27 Posts Joined 06/24/2020
    Posted 3 years, 8 months ago

    https://youtu.be/NeT2WlJlmRY

  • ODYN
    0 Users Here